Art Nirvana

When surveying art history or the biographies of artists, there are many who have left their homelands in search of inspiration in exotic lands or landscapes. For example, the American painter Georgia O’Keefe, who grew up in a small, rural town in Wisconsin, studied art in the big city of Chicago, went to New York, and then left the east coast for the desert landscape of New Mexico – quite a contrast to life in New York and the lush landscapes of the east coast. Gauguin, whose colorful paintings were inspired by his life on the exotic island of Tahiti. And one of my favorites, Malvina Hoffman, who was a student of the famous sculptor Rodin. Malvina won a commission from the Field Museum in Chicago. She traveled the world to create a collection of bronzes depicting the many faces of the world’s cultures for a museum exhibition. The experiences of these artists in these exotic landscapes or other cultures, inspired them, and later defined their art and who they became as artists.

Five years ago, I would have never thought I would be living in Mongolia, much less meeting or working with Mongolian artists. It’s like a dream; it’s surreal. As I mentioned earlier, when I was younger, I dreamed of being an archaeologist and studying the ancient history of Central Asia, Siberia, Mongolia. I was fascinated by the animal style of art – the meaning behind the symbols, the spirituality, the movement of line, the animation. The artwork, as well as the culture and history, have been a fascination of mine, one that has slowly crept into my own artwork. Since 2004, when I first visited Mongolia, it has become stronger.

In 2005, I returned to Mongolia for a second time. This time as a volunteer. Little did I know I would be introduced to many artists, professors, galleries and many fellow ceramic artists. If you want to understand the soul of a culture, you look to their artists and writers – they are the windows or the eyes of a culture’s soul. Meeting and talking with many Mongolian artists was very eye opening regarding Mongolian culture. There was also a great connection. Perhaps we artists are the same throughout the world. Certainly, our mediums connect us and I found a special connection with Mongolian ceramic artists. It’s funny, some of us like to smell and taste the earth in the same way! Perhaps because our ancestors have produced ceramics for thousands of years and the earth connects us historically, geographically and spiritually.

Now that I am living in Mongolia, I am able to see, learn, and connect even more. This past fall, I visited an exhibition by artists of the Blue Sun Gallery. The theme was based on Mongolian business logos. It was interesting to see the artists interpret these logos or businesses in the style of American Pop artists, Roy Lichtenstein and Andy Warhol.

Recently, I visited the studios of several members of the Union of Mongolian Artists. It was exciting to see so many artists at work – the color, movement and energy in their work. For example, I had never been inside the workshop of an artist who creates monumental sculptures or bronze sculptures. It was how I imagined Malvina Hoffman or Auguste Rodin’s studios to be. And to discuss surrealism with one of my favorite Mongolian painters – I never dreamed I would meet him and so it was a real treat. Like an American friend said to me, “Jules, it sounds like you are in art nirvana!” So after experiencing Mongolia’s landscapes, like the sculptural rock formations of the Gobi, and its culture, such as Nomadic life and Buddhism, it will be interesting to see what develops in a year, or five years from now.

For now, I am busy meeting with artists and learning about Mongolian contemporary art. They have shown me their studios, artwork, new galleries, the National Art Gallery and art college. I have been given clay to create my own sculptures. In addition, I have been given many pamphlets and catalogues about their artwork - including an interesting one on "Earthworks" - art made of nature in the Gobi! Some of us are currently discussing some exhibitions for this year and next. I am hoping to do a show with a fellow ceramic artist on Women's Day, March 8th. And Of course, I would like to bring some of them to Chicago. We await the first edition of a new magazine on Mongolian Contemporary Art. If anyone is interested in receiving a copy, please let me know.

Here is a photo of my good friend and Artist extraordinaire, Mr. Boldbaatar. He is an art Prof. at the Technical University, Member of the Union of Mongolian Artists, exhibit designer for the new Chingiss Khan Memorial museum and creator of the new World Art magazine.

Blue Sun Gallery: www.bluesun.mn

Union of Mongolian Artists (UMA): www.uma.mn

Mongolian Arts Council: www.artscouncil.mn

More photos later...

"Happy Merry Christmas"

Many people have been asking me if and how they celebrate Christmas in Mongolia. Let me say I have never been to so many parties in one week, in my life! I think I was invited to six, plus lunch at a friend’s home, but only made it to five.

As a few Mongolian friends said to me, Mongols are a little confused about Christmas and New Year’s. Traditionally, they did not celebrate either, just their traditional New Year’s in late February – “Tsagaan Sar”, which is really to celebrate the beginning of spring. When the Russians came along in the early part of the 20th century, they brought their celebrations. However, because the Communists did not celebrate religious holidays, they combined Christmas with New Year’s. So here, you have Christmas trees and Santa Claus, but no real celebration on December 25th. Still, I had friends over for dinner on Christmas Eve (making the traditional family kugel) and went to dinner at a Ukranian restaurant Christmas Day.

The party season seems to start the last week of December up until January 1st. As one friend put it, the parties are more “corporate”, sponsored by one’s workplace, companies, organizations and schools, not really family oriented. Our school held a Children’s Party in the Children’s Palace on December 28th. Some of the classes gave performances of traditional songs and dances mixed with nursery rhymes and Christmas songs. Then there were clowns, magicians, puppets, and a visit by Santa Claus who looked more like St. Nic or Father Christmas – dressed in a long, light blue, fur trimmed coat, a Mongolian hat and carrying a staff.

The other parties I attended were very interesting. One was for one of Mongolia’s largest family corporations, MCS. They own a construction business, telecommunications, beverage company, real estate, and a school to name a few. Held at the Grand Khan Irish Pub, it was like an American corporate party, complete with live entertainment. Next was a party for a non-profit – the Mongolian chapter of People to People International. This was a very formal Chinese-style dinner, held in a hotel, where the women wore evening gowns. There was some live entertainment, party games and a DJ. The last big party was for the Professors and senior graduating class of the School of Foreign Relations. Another formal dinner held at a restaurant. I was accidentally introduced by a senior professor (who already had a shot of vodka) as a professor from the University of Chicago….wishful thinking!

December 31st tends to be for family gatherings. New Year’s Eve, people pop their champagne bottles, there are fireworks throughout the city, and people gather in Sukhbaatar square – which was all televised, just like Times Square in the U.S.! And so ended the year-long celebration of the 800th Anniversary of Chingiss Khan’s formation of the Mongol State.

No Ordinary Thanksgiving

No turkeys in these parts of the world. Kind of missed the annual Thanksgiving feast. There is some chicken; otherwise, it's all beef and lamb. They don't celebrate Thanksgiving here obviously, but some of the teachers had Thanksgiving activities for the kids – writing thank-you cards to parents, etc.

Thanksgiving eve, we went to a reception for an art exhibition on Mongolian Pop Art. A group of artists I know created paintings based on Mongolian business logos - ala Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein. I also met a Member of Parliament and more interesting artists, writers, and poets from Mongolian society. It was like an art scene from the 50's and 60's in New York or Paris - everyone with their berets, tweed jackets, smoking their cigarettes...kind of romantic in a way. I’ll write more about the art scene later.

Then we went to the "Grand Khan Irish Pub" - sounds like an oxymoron. There was a Mongolian rock band playing that night. They were very good at imitating American rock. They even played Deep Purple's "Smoke on the Water" which made me think of a family summer at Lake Louise.

Thanksgiving Day was also interesting. Had planned to treat myself to some tandoori chicken at a local Indian restaurant, but after my Mongolian class, I met my friend Altay. He is working on his PhD and has patented a wonderful computer program teaching English with pictures. He wanted to show one of his old professors his program and dragged me along. His professor was a very charming older man who has written many books on Mongolian place names found throughout Asia, Europe, and the Middle East. Who knew?!

After that, we went to visit one of his friends who is Chief of Mongolia's Bureau of Environmental Affairs. I talked with him about some ideas for public education and museums. He knows the head of museums and it would be nice to work with them on some projects.

Then we went to dinner at an interesting place – The Lenin Museum. As you enter the large concrete building, there is a big hall with some mosaics on the wall and a giant head of Lenin in the middle. I was waiting for him to start talking to us. The Mongols haven't taken this down because they discovered in the past few decades, that Lenin was part Mongolian – another surprise.

One of Altay's family friends joined us for dinner - an older gentleman who has composed many famous songs for Mongolian movies. He's also been an actor and now works on documentary films. He's very funny too, kind of a cross between Johnny Carson and Charlie Chaplin, but he looks a bit like Henny Youngman.

So no turkey for dinner; no American food. I wondered who was taking my place at home making the gravy. No, this Thanksgiving was spent with friends, eating Khuushuur, (one of my favorite Mongolian foods actually) and toasting Thanksgiving with Chingiss beer and a shot of vodka.

As my family would say: “Svakes!”